There’s no hiding that our little friends age a lot faster than we do. Rats are already considered elderly around 2.5 – 3 years old. You may notice them sleeping more, looking a little bit more scraggly, and thinning out (or getting fatter!)
It’s only fair that we show our oldie rats extra love and care during their twilight years (well, to be fair, months). A little extra attention goes a long way towards helping them stay happy and comfortable as sweet old rats.
Older rats really seem to appreciate the extra care, and often like to cuddle a lot more – which makes helping them age well even more rewarding!
Cage setup for old rats
It’s usually best to keep older rats as active as possible, as long as possible. Kind of like with humans, older rats tend to live longer, richer lives when they don’t slow down too much!
Here are some ways you can keep challenging your older rats physically and mentally:
- Snuffle mats
- Forage toys or sprinkling their food around the bottom of their cage
- Pea or corn fishing
- Encouraging them to move around with you while outside their cage
Most older rats will still enjoy climbing to the best of their ability. With that said, they may start developing arthritis, muscle loss and weakness in their limbs over time. If your oldies do have some mobility issues, you can make some cage accommodations for them to keep them from hurting themselves:
- Set up hammocks underneath anything climbable in their cage in case they fall. Older rats’ balance may not be as good as their younger cage mates, and they aren’t as good at catching themselves if they slip.
- Give them more sturdy things to climb. For example, ramps instead of tree branches or ropes. You can line metal or plastic ramps with material like felt to help their feet grip.
- Keep water, food etc. on the lowest level for them all of the time in case they can’t get to it higher up.
- If your rat is confined to the bottom level of their cage, you might want to line it with a soft towel instead of bedding to make it easier for them to get around and keep the substrate away from the their face.
Older rats can have more trouble with temperature regulation than younger ones, so providing nesting boxes where the elderly rats can get to with plenty of nesting material can help keep them warm and snug.
Diet for older rats
Older rats don’t need as much protein as younger ones do. Too much protein can cause kidney problems for them. Older rats may also have a harder time chewing thick or sticky foods.
If you notice that your elderly rats have trouble eating, holding food in their hands or keeping weight on, you might need to try mushy foods that are easier for them to eat. Mashed bananas, avocado, oat milk and baby food are some great options. Otherwise, if they don’t have any trouble, staying on a regular diet including lots of crunchy stuff can help keep their teeth strong.
Meal replacement drinks like Ensure or Boost are great for helping them keep their weight up. My rats also loved Pablum, a cereal for human babies!
Helping older rats groom
You might notice your rats having trouble keeping themselves clean as they get older, lazier, and develop mobility troubles. They may have little crusties around their face, and more porphyrin than normal for them. Sometimes older rats’ fur can thin out, making them look at bit rough! A little wipe down with a damp wash cloth once or twice a day can help them keep their fur nice, and the goop out of their face. Younger rats will sometimes help older rats groom as well (but not always!)
Common problems in old age and what to look out for
Many health conditions are treatable and can extend their lives for another few months, which is a long time to a rat!
- Mammary tumors. These are very common in female rats, especially as they approach 2 years of age. Sometimes they grow slowly enough that your vet might recommend just leaving them, but other times they need to be removed. This can sometimes be a difficult decision for you and your vet, as anesthesia gets riskier the older your rats get. For more on tumors, see: The Dreaded Lump.
- Hind leg degeneration. Older rats often develop weakness in their back legs. This can progress into total paralysis more often with males, but sometimes female rats too. Rats with advanced hind leg degeneration often lose the ability to reach their face with their back feet, so they will need your help gently cleaning and scratching itches around their eyes, nose and ears. A Q-tip is great for this (just don’t push too far into their ear canal.) While it can be hard for us to watch, HLD doesn’t normally cause rats a lot of pain, and they usually find a way to scoot around. If you’re concerned that they might be in pain, talk to your vet about medication to help manage it.
- Respiratory distress. Many rats are afflicted with respiratory issues throughout their life that worsen as they age. For more information, see this page on respiratory issues.
- Cataracts. In older rats, you may notice their eyes clouding over and cataracts developing. All rats have fairly poor eyesight throughout their lifetime and tend to get along just fine with their noses and whiskers, even if totally blind. As their sight degenerates, you might notice them weaving their heads back and forth to try to see things better. (This is also common in pink eyed white rats at any age.)
When to think about euthanasia
When a rat starts to decline, they usually decline very quickly, over a day or two. With some diseases, though, it’s possible for them to live for a few months with it. It’s up to you to decide whether their quality of life is still decent. Your vet can help you assess whether your rattie is in pain and whether their condition is manageable. If your rat becomes completely immobile, or refuses food and water, that’s usually a sign that they don’t have much time left.
Conclusion
Caring for elderly rats requires a few accommodations, but it’s so worth it to keep them comfortable and happy. I hope this article helped ease your mind about your little furry friends aging.
